Now is the Time to Treat Iron Deficiency

Iron chlorosis is a common problem of many ornamentals, shrubs, vines and trees. Instead of a healthy, rich green look, the leaves of trees, plants and shrubs affected by iron chlorosis are yellow to light green, with prominent veins. In severe cases, iron chlorosis will cause the leaf to take on a scorched look. 

This yellowing of normally green leaves is due to a lack of chlorophyll, brought on because the plant or tree involved is lacking the micronutrient Iron. The root cause of iron deficiency is directly related to the quality of the soil your trees and shrubs are planted in. Remedies for iron chlorosis include applying iron supplements in a form the tree can use, as well as improving soil structure, reducing soil pH and building stronger root systems. 

Iron supplements are available in liquid and granular forms. Choose one that is labeled Chelated. Chelated iron is not affected by soil pH levels and as a result, is more readily available to your trees and shrubs. The best iron supplement choice is a complex of iron and the chelating agent EDDEHA. 

These supplements can be applied directly to the soil under the tree; through a series of holes drilled around the drip line; by trunk injection; by foliar application with a sprayer. The method selected depends on where the tree is planted in your landscape. To fix the problem long-term, you have to fix the soil.   

Applying organic materials such as compost, peat moss and humate will improve soil structure and reduce alkalinity. Each of these products is applied to the area under the tree's dripline, three to four times per year. Finally, know what you’re dealing with. This shrub may look like chlorotic, but yellow leaves are normal for a Gold Flame Spirea.  

How to Prepare Plants for Transplanting

   

It’s important to take your time when it comes to moving your new seedlings to the great outdoors. This applies whether you grew your own vegetables and flowers from seed or bought them from our greenhouse. Moving your plants from the house or greenhouse directly into the garden without giving them time to adjust will set your plants back weeks due to transplant shock.

This slow transition from indoors to the outside is called “hardening off”. Hardening off plants gradually exposes them to outdoor light, wind and temperatures. The process is easy, but it takes time. In fact, you should plan on a week or so to get your immature plants ready to transplant into the garden. 

On the first day, pick a sheltered, shady spot under a tree or on the patio and leave them there for 3 or 4 hours. Bring them in that night. The second day, leave them out 5 or 6 hours, the third day 6 or 7 hours. On the fourth day, set your plants in a place where they will receive morning sun. Morning sun is not as harsh as afternoon sun. This will help your plants adjust to direct sunlight. Gradually increase sunlight exposure over the next few days. After 7 or 8 days, your plants should be ready for the outdoors. Even then, you'll want to keep an eye on the forecast. The average last day of frost is May 10, but this can vary greatly. Be prepared to bring your plants back in if the night time temperatures fall. 

Products like Wall-O’-Water will protect your plants into the low 30°’s. N-sulate is a frost blanket that will help protect your plants at night. If plants are small enough, throw a box or bucket over them to keep the frost off. Make sure you keep your plants watered during this hardening off process. Being outside means they will dry out faster, so keep an eye on the watering. Finally, when you’re ready to plant, pick a cloudy day. This will help your plants make the transition from container to the garden even easier.