How to Care for Lilac Bushes

 

Keeping lilacs strong, healthy and blooming season after season, requires some maintenance. Proper care includes deadheading, pruning out old, diseased wood and in some severe cases, rejuvenation pruning. Deadheading involves removing the spent blossoms from this year's bloom.  This should be done as soon as possible after the flowers fade. Lilacs bloom on old wood. This means that soon after flowering, they begin to set the buds for next season's blooms. If you wait too long, you'll remove most of next years blooms.  

                      

The old flower cluster should be cut off at its base, just above the two fresh shoots that emerge from the same branch as the faded flowers. While you’re at it, cut of any old seed pods. The new shoots will grow over the summer, set flower buds and be topped off with a flower cluster the following spring. This is also the time to get rid of dead, damaged or diseased stems, as well as any branches that cross one another. To keep your lilac bush from growing too tall, remove one-third of any old stems that are thicker than two inches. Examine the base of the lilac. You’ll typically find a number of new shoots growing around the base. Remove all but three or four of this new growth. These actions will help keep the best wood and prevent the bush from getting too leggy. Prune off any extra-long stems back to the closest set of side shoots. If indeed, your lilac has seen better days, rejuvenation pruning may be in order. This involves cutting every cane back to 4”- 6” above the ground. This drastic approach will result in many vigorous canes the following season. If your lilac bush is of the grafted variety, be sure and cut above the graft. 

These care instructions are for common lilacs (Syringa vulgaris). Dwarf lilacs such as ‘Miss Kim’ seldom need pruning, other than deadheading as the blooms fade.  Finally, work in 2” of Earth Essentials sheep, peat and compost to the soil around the bush; add a balanced fertilizer, such as 11-15-11 and mulch to about 3”. Your lilac will be prepared for the rest of the summer and ready to bloom next spring. 

The Keys to Growing Vegetables in Containers

 

 
The lack of a traditional garden doesn't mean you can’t grow your own tomatoes, herbs and fresh vegetables. Most crops can be grown successfully in containers on the patio, balcony or deck. The keys to productive container gardening are: deciding what you want to grow, choosing the best container for the crops you chose, selecting a high-quality potting soil mix and a fertilizer designed to get the most out of your crops. When you’re deciding what to grow, plan to plant crops you’re most likely to pick, prepare and eat.  If you don’t like tomatoes, don’t grow them. Light is also an important consideration when choosing plants. Tomatoes, peppers and potatoes six to eight hours of sunlight daily in order to produce. Beans, beets, leafy greens, radishes and most herbs will do fine in six hours or less of sunlight. Once you have growing plan, it’s time to choose a container.  Typical containers include clay, plastic and ceramic. Clay pots "breathe" better than plastic and they look natural. They are still a favorite of gardeners everywhere. Plastic pots are available in different colors and aren't as heavy as terracotta or ceramic. Ceramic pottery is available in many colors and offers a "finished" look. Choose a container that drains. No matter how careful you are, water will build up over time and cause damage to the roots of your plants.  Adding gravel or pot shards to the bottom of the container doesn't help drainage. Match the container size to the tomato or vegetables you want to grow. For tomato plants, peppers, cucumbers, choose a container that's 24" in diameter or larger. 

An 18" diameter container will hold a bush tomato, cauliflower, cabbage or mixed greens. In a 14" diameter container you could plant cabbage, collards, arugula or leaf lettuce. A 10" container will accommodate herbs, lettuce, leafy greens. Not all containers are round and tall. Many are rectangular or bowl-shaped. It's best to talk to us about what you want to grow and then we can show you your options in container size, shape and color. 

Self-watering containers such as an Earth Box™ make it easier to grow tomatoes and other vegetables. An advantage of the Earth Box™ is the optional trellis designed specifically to support tomatoes and climbing vegetables. Smart Pots are soft-sided fabric containers. The benefits of Smart Pots include aeration, water drainage and heat release. Now that you've selected your container, choose a quality potting soil to put in it. High grade potting soils are light and airy, do not contain clay or garden soil or water retention crystals.  We recommend The Flower Bin Potting Soil for growing tomatoes and vegetables in containers. 

Feeding your tomatoes and vegetables will help assure a good crop. Organic products like Fox Farm Tomato and Vegetable will provide nutrients for your plants need in order to produce the best harvest.  A watering wand will help you water your containers and a moisture meter will help you decide when to water. There's nothing like growing your own tomatoes, vegetables and herbs. Whether you're short on gardening space or just want to add to your existing garden area, we're here to help you create a great container garden.