June is National Rose Month

Roses are timeless garden favorites, valued for their vivid color, distinctive fragrance, and wide range of forms. With varieties that differ in color, scent, and bloom habit—including repeat-flowering and single-bloom types—there is a rose to suit nearly every garden.

Growing roses in Colorado can be a rewarding experience if provided with the right culture. Start with the basics. Roses need a minimum of six hours of full sun to grow and bloom properly. Roses need a bed of their own, away from trees, shrubs and perennials that compete for sunlight, space and nutrients. Roses need space. They don’t do well when crowded together.  

There is a long history of roses growing in Colorado. In 1874 Charlotte Hill discovered a fossilized rose leaf preserved in the Upper Eocene Florissant Formation some 34 million years ago. Now in the Smithsonian, the fossil rose Rosa hilliae is named for her. In addition, native rose species, including mountain rose, Rosa woodsii, prickly rose, Rosa acicularis, and prairie rose, Rosa arkansana can be viewed from the plains to elevation.  

Wild roses or “species roses” typically have a single, predominately pink flower. Old Garden Roses or heirloom roses were cultivated prior to 1867. They have a strong fragrance but only bloom once a year. 

Cultivated after 1867, Modern Garden Roses are those most familiar to gardeners. The year 1867 is an important one in rose history, since it marks the debut of the hybrid tea rose. Tall and elegant, hybrid tea roses are by far the most popular rose grown. Available in a wide range of colors, hybrid teas produce individual long-stemmed blooms and flowers repeatedly during the season.  

You can even find hybrid tea roses named for celebrities. In addition to hybrid teas, modern garden rose varieties include climbers, David Austin, shrub roses, miniature roses, grandifloras, and floribundas. 

When it comes to growing roses successfully in Colorado, choose a location that receives at least six hours of direct sun every day, away from trees, shrubs and perennials that compete for sunlight, space and nutrients. Provide adequate space between rose bushes. They don’t do well when crowded together. Prepare the planting site by adding locally produced organic materials, such as Earth Essentials Sheep, Peat, and Compost. Roses need well-amended soils to establish strong root systems and achieve vigorous growth and bloom potential.  

Planted now, roses will establish throughout the season and provide unique color to your garden for many seasons to come.  

How Often Should You Water Your Houseplants? (Plus Self-Watering Solutions That Work)

 

“How often do I water my houseplant?” 

This is one of the most common questions we hear at The Flower Bin, and it’s completely understandable. Most people want a simple answer like “once a week” or “every two weeks.” Unfortunately, houseplant watering doesn’t work that way. There’s no one-size-fits-all schedule. Watering frequency depends on many factors — light levels, temperature, humidity, pot size, plant type, and season. Water too often and you risk root rot. Water too little and your plants becomes stressed and crispy. In this guide, we’ll cover the right way to water, common mistakes to avoid, and smart self-watering systems that can take much of the guesswork out of plant care.

Watering Basics

Most houseplant problems stem from watering habits, so let’s start with the fundamentals.

When to Water 
Always check the soil before watering. For most tropical houseplants (like pothos, monstera, and philodendron), water when the top 1–2 inches of soil feel dry.

Reliable ways to check soil moisture:

The Finger Test (Still the most accurate) 
Insert your finger 1–2 inches into the soil. 

• Dry: Loose, crumbly, and slightly warm. 

• Moist: Cool and damp, like a wrung-out sponge. 

• Wet: Muddy, cold, and soggy.

The Chopstick or Skewer Method (Great for deeper pots) 
Insert a clean chopstick or skewer 3–4 inches into the soil, leave it for 10–15 minutes, then remove: 

• Dry: Comes out clean and dry. 

• Moist: Slightly damp with a thin layer of soil or darker mark. 

• Wet: Dark, soaked, and muddy.

This is especially useful for narrow pots or when you prefer not to get your hands dirty.

Moisture Meters 
Insert the probe 3–4 inches deep in a few spots and average the readings. 
Tip: They work best paired with the finger or chopstick test, especially in chunky or perlite-heavy mixes. Always wipe the probe clean after use.

Lifting the Pot (Weight Method) 
Lift the pot after watering and note its weight. Over the next few days, you’ll learn to recognize when it feels noticeably lighter and needs water again. Combining this with the finger test helps you calibrate quickly.

Think of your potting soil like a sponge: You want it damp and springy — holding both air and moisture — but never dripping wet or heavy. Compacted, muddy soil starves roots of oxygen and leads to rot.

How to Water Properly 
Water thoroughly until it drains freely from the bottom of the pot. This encourages strong roots and flushes out excess salts and minerals that build up from tap water and fertilizers. After 20–30 minutes, always empty any standing water from saucers or cache pots.

Water Type & Temperature 
Use room temperature water. Let tap water sit out overnight to dissipate chlorine. Rainwater or filtered water is best for sensitive plants like ferns and calatheas

Seasonal Changes 
Plants need more water in spring and summer (active growth) and less in fall and winter. Heaters, air conditioning, and bright light all increase watering needs

Common Watering Mistakes to Avoid

• Watering on a fixed calendar schedule 

• Giving plants only a light sprinkle (shallow watering) 

• Letting plants sit in standing water 

• Using ice-cold water 

• Ignoring changes in light, temperature, or pot size

Self-Watering Systems: Gamechangers for Busy Plant Parents

If you travel frequently, have a large collection, or want more consistency, self-watering solutions can be very helpful.

Self-Watering Pots 
These innovative pots include a built-in reservoir so plants can water themselves through wicking action. Options range from classic self-watering pots with bottom reservoirs to WallyGrow wall planters, which have a handy back watering channel. Wally Pots are especially popular for creating stunning vertical plant displays while making maintenance much easier.

Best for: Peace lilies, ferns, monsteras, pothos, and other moisture-loving plants. 
Not ideal for: Succulents, cacti, or drought-tolerant varieties.

Tip: To reduce algae buildup in the reservoir, you can occasionally add a small amount of 3% hydrogen peroxide to the water. It breaks down into water and oxygen. Still flush the soil periodically to prevent mineral buildup.

Blumat (Tropf-Blumat) Systems 
These systems use porous ceramic cones as moisture sensors. When the soil dries, the cones release water from a gravity-fed reservoir through thin tubing.

How it works: 

1. Soak the cones before first use. 

2. Insert into moist soil. 

3. Connect to a raised reservoir.

The system self-regulates based on each plant’s needs. Pros: Excellent for vacations (2–4+ weeks), highly customizable, and requires no electricity. 
Best for: Larger collections of tropical plants that like consistent moisture.

Final Thoughts 

Mastering houseplant watering is less about rigid schedules and more about understanding your plants and using the right tools. Whether you prefer hands-on care or a hands-off approach, the goal is the same — healthy, happy plants. 

Stop by The Flower Bin and talk to our team in Houseplants or Hardgoods. We’re happy to help you find the best watering solutions for your specific plants!