Treating Iron Chlorosis in the Fall

 

You see them all over the city. Instead of a healthy, rich green, the leaves of trees as well as some shrubs look light green to yellow with prominent veins. Many leaves have a scorched appearance.

This yellowing of normally green leaves is due to a lack of chlorophyll, brought on because the tree involved is lacking the micronutrient Iron. The root cause of iron deficiency is directly related to the quality of the soil your trees and shrubs are planted in. Remedies for iron chlorosis include applying iron supplements in a form the tree can use, as well as improving soil structure, reducing soil pH and building stronger root systems. 

It's called iron chlorosis and as chlorosis advances, clusters of leaves will take on a scorched look. 

Chlorosis may show up on one or two branches, or the whole tree may be affected. Many factors, individually or in combination, contribute to chlorosis. These involve nutrient deficiencies that are directly related to the soil your trees are planted in. 

Remedies for chlorosis include applying iron supplements in a form the tree can use, as well as improving soil structure and reducing the pH of the soil.

Iron supplements are available in liquid and granular forms. Chelated iron is not affected by soil pH levels and is more readily available to your trees. 

The best iron supplement choice is a complex of iron and the chelating agent EDDEHA.

These supplements can be applied directly to the soil under the tree; through a series of holes drilled around the drip line or through a soil injection needle, like this one.

The method selected depends on where the tree is planted in your landscape.

Applying organic materials such as compost, peat moss and humate will improve soil structure and reduce alkalinity. Each of these products is applied to the area under the dripline, three to four times per year. 

Humate is a chelating agent, so it helps trees absorb existing iron. It is sold as ferti-lome HuMic. Put the HuMic down first and water it in.

Follow this step with a thin (1/8" to ¼") layer of Sheep and Peat or Peat Moss and water in thoroughly. If your tree is surrounded by mulch, you can pull the mulch back past the drip line and follow the same process as above: HuMic, then Sheep and Peat or Peat Moss and water in. 

An alternative approach is to drill a series of holes twelve to eighteen inches apart, eight to ten inches deep around the drip line and fill each hole with HuMic and Sheep and Peat and then water in. Repeated applications will improve the soil structure, increase microbial activity and encourage the tree to take up more iron on its own. 

Your tree cannot overcome chlorosis on its own.  Understanding and resolving iron chlorosis is complex. We encourage you to stop by the store with a sample of your tree. We’ll verify the problem and help you select the right products to help restore your tree’s health.   

How to Grow Gourmet Garlic

 

Garlic (Allium sativum) belongs to the allium family, along with leeks, shallots, and onions. It is typically planted in October and harvested the following year, from late spring through early summer.

Garlic cloves need six to eight weeks of cold temperatures (below 40° F) to develop properly. This process is called vernalization, and it occurs when cold soil temperatures stress the cloves, prompting them to divide into separate segments, begin growing roots, and then enter dormancy until spring.

There are two major groups of garlic: soft neck and hardneck. Softneck garlic is the kind you will generally find in the grocery store. It’s the primary choice for commercial growers. Softneck garlic has a flexible stalk which can be braided. California White is a softneck garlic with a robust flavor. 

Hardneck garlic also has a stalk –called a scape- which coils at the top. If left to mature, hardneck garlic will produce a flower which consists of several small bulbils, or tiny bulbs, which are edible. Hardnecks dry to a hard stem, hence the name. As a group, they have a deep rich flavor such as Spanish Roja, Purple Glazer and Metechi.

Which every you choose to grow, it’s important to select high-quality seed garlic. Garlic bought in grocery stores is often treated with sprout inhibitors, disrupting the growth cycle. 

  

While garlic can be planted in traditional ground beds or in raised beds, any open space can be utilized.  This includes open, sunny areas around perennials and roses. 

Garlic needs full sun to optimize growth, so choose a site that will receive at least 6 hours of direct sun. Garlic does best when planted in well-drained soils, so plan to add an organic soil amendment such as locally produced Earth Essentials Sheep, Peat, and Compost into your planting site. This is an important step to take whether this is a new bed or one you have grown in before.

Once the soil has been amended, incorporate some Bone Meal into your garlic bed. This will facilitate root development.

With your site selected and prepared, you’re ready to plant. Start by breaking the bulb into individual cloves. This is referred to as “cracking” the bulb. Plant each clove 3” to 4” deep, pointy end up and spaced about 6” apart. 

Like other spring flowering bulbs, garlic planted now will set roots and start to grow. As the soil temperature cools down, growth stops. When soil temperatures increase in the spring, the bulb will resume its growth cycle. 

 

Garlic should be mulched in early winter, after the ground freezes. The mulch will help hold in moisture and keep the ground stable.  Soil Pep is a good choice for mulch as it can be worked into the ground after harvest.

Come spring when new shoots are about 3” high, top dress each garlic with Blood Meal. This will provide the Nitrogen garlic needs to grow.

Softneck garlic planted now will usually be ready for harvest around July 4th. Dig softnecks when the leaves turn brown. Hardneck garlic will mature a little later in the season. They’re ready to harvest when the scapes straighten out.