Time to apply Dormant Oil

Dormant spraying involves applying a preventative spray in late winter while fruit trees, deciduous trees and ornamental shrubs are still dormant.

Dormant oils are highly refined oils that act to suffocate scale, aphids, mites and other insects which seek out shelter from the winter in the bark of trees and bushes.  Product choices include concentrated Ferti-Lome Dormant Spray and ready-to-use Ferti-Lome Horticultural Oil Spray. Both of these products contain Mineral Oil.

If you want the convenience of a product that's ready to use, choose Ferti-Lome's Horticultural Oil Spray. Hook up the hose, turn it on and you're ready to spray.

For larger jobs, it's more cost effective to buy Ferti-Lome Dormant Spray. Dormant Spray can be applied with a tank sprayer or a hose end sprayer.

For best results, get a self-mixing hose end applicator.

You set the dial to the recommended rate either tablespoons or teaspoons, hook up the hose and the sprayer mixes the right proportion automatically.  Simple and effective! There's no waste because you don't have to guess at how much spray you need. When you're done, unhook the hose, disconnect the sprayer, put the cap back on the container and store it on the shelf. Though it may not feel like it right now, the temperatures will warm up again. Ideal conditions for dormant spraying would be on a day in late February or early March when the temperature will be above 40°F, there’s little or no wind and no rain or snow. Wind will carry the oil away from the tree or shrub you’re trying to protect. You’ll want to spray early in the morning so the plant will be dry by evening. Spray enough to cover the tree or shrub thoroughly.

Whenever you decide to spray, it needs to be before bud break, when the bud starts to show color. Spraying now with Dormant Oil reduces the impact aphids, scale and other insects can have later in spring and summer.  

Soil Testing Tips

The quality of your soil has a profound effect on everything you grow in your garden. The key elements affecting our soils are the clay content, the pH and soil fertility.  Soil pH is one of the most important factors influencing your gardening success, because it affects the availability of nutrients to plants, as well as the microbial activity in your soil.  No matter the quality of the fertilizer or supplement you apply, the plant can’t use it if the pH is too high.  Soil pH is a measure of the acidity or alkalinity of a soil. On the pH scale, 7.0 is neutral, above 7 is alkaline, below 7 is acidic. Bleach for example is very alkaline. Lemon juice is very acidic. Most plants prefer a pH of between 6.5 and 7. Our soils are typically greater than 7.  Home test kits are a quick and relatively easy way to get a reading on pH.

Soil test meters are an economical way to test pH. Meters let you test your soil in multiple locations (yes, it can vary greatly across the garden), quickly and easily. Meters come either with a digital or an analog readout. You don’t have to mix anything and you can do the test as often as you like in a short period of time. 

There are also kits which utilize a capsule system to accomplish the test. You combine soil, water and a test capsule in the test tube provided, and then compare the color with the included chart to get the answer.

You can buy test kits specifically for pH, or kits that include pH plus Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K).

Home test kits are easy and handy, but to get a more complete understanding of your soil, we recommend you get a soil test analysis from the laboratory at Colorado State University. You can get a mailer and test instructions in the Hardgoods section of the store. The mailer is free, but you do pay a fee to CSU for the test.  In return, you will receive a comprehensive analysis of your soil.

Here’s another quick test for you to determine the makeup of your soil. You need a clean jar with a lid, some dish soap and water. Put 4-5 ounces of soil in the bottom of the jar. Add enough water to fill the jar 2/3 full.  Add a drop or two of dishwasher soap. Put the lid on and shake well. Let sit undisturbed for 24 hours. You’ll see that the soil has settled into layers. The first layer will be sand. The second layer will be silt and the third layer clay. Organic material will float to the top. Most of the time, you’re going to see a small amount of sand and silt, a large percentage of clay and a small amount of organic material. To improve this soil, you need to add more organic material such as peat moss, coconut coir or sheep manure. Once you've gotten your test results, bring us the results.  We'll recommend the right amendments to make your garden soil healthier and more productive.

Know when to prune flowering shrubs

 Most shrubs will benefit from an annual pruning.  Pruning helps keep ornamental shrubs in shape, gets rid of dead and diseased wood, encourages healthy growth and generally promotes more blooms. Getting the most from your flowering shrubs this season depends on three things; knowing when to prune, how to prune and using the right pruning tools. Flowering shrubs can be divided into two types; spring blooming and summer blooming.

Spring blooming shrubs such as forsythia, lilac, ninebark and weigela already have this spring's flower buds in place. They're said to bloom on "old wood" because soon after flowering last season, they began to set the buds for this season's blooms. If you prune these shrubs now, you'll remove most of the flower buds. The time to prune ornamental shrubs that flower in spring and early summer, is within a month after they stop blooming. 

Summer flowering shrubs such as butterfly bush, blue-mist spirea, potentilla and hardy hibiscus can be pruned now, because they bloom on this year's growth or "new wood".  Begin by removing any broken, dead or diseased branches.

Next, use a sharp pair of bypass pruners to cut away any small crossing branches.

Make the cut just above the collar, that flair where one branch meets another.

For larger branches use a lopper.

For even more leverage, select a lopper with a ratchet design. These tools make it easy to cut through tough, thick branches.

Summer flowering hardy hibiscus and butterfly bushes do best if you cut them hard to the ground now. You can use a lopper to cut the canes.  Don't worry! They'll grow back and bloom vigorously. After you're done pruning, give your ornamental shrubs a good drink. They need it after our dry winter. Wait another month to feed your shrubs. When you do, select a fertilizer with a higher Phosphate (middle number) formula, such as 11-15-11. Pruning shrubs can be somewhat intimidating. If you have questions about pruning in general or how to prune a particular shrub, stop by our Diagnostic Center. We'll help you figure out what to do. Learning how and when to prune will keep your shrubs healthy and blooming for many seasons.