How to Plant Garlic, Onions, and Shallots in the Fall

Garlic, shallots, and onions are members of the allium family. Typically planted in late September and early October, they are well suited to planting in the fall and will produce a good crop come late spring into summer. Like other spring flowering bulbs, garlic, onions, and shallots planted now will set roots and start to grow. As the soil temperature cools down, growth stops. When soil temperatures increase in the spring, the bulb will resume its growth cycle.

 

Garlic, shallots, and onions like sun and well-drained soils, so incorporate an organic soil amendment such as Sheep, Peat, and Compost into your planting site. Once the soil has been amended incorporate some Bone Meal or Phosphate into your garlic bed. This will facilitate root development.

 

Garlic, shallots, and onions can be planted in traditional rows or in raised beds.  Plant each garlic clove 3” to 4” deep, pointy end up and spaced 6” to 8” apart.  

Plant onion sets and shallots 2” to 3” deep, 5” apart. Garlic, onions, and shallots can also be planted and grown successfully in and among existing perennials and roses.

 

There are many different varieties of garlic, all of which fall into three general categories: Softneck, Hardneck and Elephant.

 

Softneck garlic is the kind you will generally find in the grocery store. The two common types of softneck garlic are artichoke and silverskin. Both varieties have a mild flavor and generally store well. Softneck garlics have a flexible stalk which can be braided.

 

Hardneck garlics also have a stalk –called a scape- which coils at the top. If left to mature, hardneck garlic will produce a flower which is several small bulbils, or tiny bulbs, which are edible. Hardnecks dry to a hard stem, hence the name. The most common Hardneck garlic is rocambole. As a group, they have a deeper, richer flavor than softnecks do, but they don’t store as well. Elephant garlic is the largest garlic. It is also the mildest and sweetest. It is easy to peel and has a long shelf life.

 

Garlic needs a cold period of at least 40 days. Otherwise, the bulb won’t set properly. This process is called vernalization, whereby the cold temperatures stress the seed, encouraging to divide it into separate cloves.

 

Begin by selecting high quality seed garlic. Garlic purchased in grocery stores is often treated with sprout inhibitors, disrupting the growth cycle. 

Break the bulb into individual cloves. This is often referred to as “cracking” the bulb. Each clove should produce a bulb of 6-8 cloves.

 

Garlic, onions, and shallots should be mulched in early winter, after the ground freezes. Around Thanksgiving, apply a 4” to 5” layer of mulch to the planting site. The mulch will hold in moisture and keep the ground cold and stable.  Soil Pep is a good choice for mulch as it can be worked into the ground after harvest. 

 

 

 

Come spring, when new shoots are about 3” high, side dress with Blood Meal. At 12-0-0, this will provide the Nitrogen garlic, shallots and onions need to grow and develop.

 

 

Softneck garlic planted now will usually be ready for harvest around July 4^th. Dig softnecks when the leaves turn brown. Hardneck garlic will mature a litt1le later in the season. They’re ready to harvest when the scapes straighten out.

 

Onions are ready to harvest when the tops turn yellow and fall over. Green onions can be harvested earlier, before the bulbs start to form. Shallot bulb picking can begin when the foliage droops and turns brown. The top of the shallot protruding from the ground is another indication they’re ready for harvest.