How to Grow and Care for Amaryllis

  

Along with poinsettias and paperwhites, amaryllis help us celebrate the season with their long-lasting, colorful blooms. They’re easy to grow and don’t require a lot of maintenance. They do require six to eight weeks to bloom, so now’s the time to start them. Amaryllis bulbs are available in many beautiful varieties, including various shades of red, white, pink, and salmon.  Amaryllis bulbs are sized from small to X-large. As a rule, the larger the bulb size, the more blooms it will produce. Once you've chosen the bulbs you want to start, it's time to pick out a container. Amaryllis can be planted in soil or forced in water. If you’re growing in soil, choose a heavy ceramic or clay pot, because lightweight pots may tip over under the weight of the blooms.  The container you select needs to have good drainage and be the right size for the bulb you’re planting.  

  

Amaryllis like to be snug in their pot, so select a container that's about an inch or so larger than the bulb and is deep enough for the roots to grow. Next, add damp potting soil to the bottom third of the pot. Place the bulb in the center of the pot and spread the roots out so they fan out from the center of the bulb. Do the best you can with the roots. You're mainly trying to keep them from bunching up under the bulb. Fill in around the bulb with more damp potting soil. Leave the top third of the bulb uncovered. Water thoroughly and place the bulb in a warm, well-lit location.  

  

 
 

 
 

Once the flower stalk begins to appear, you can start feeding your bulb with a 15-30-15 fertilizer. After that, fertilize every two weeks and water frequently enough to keep the soil moist.  

  

Amaryllis can also be grown in water. Select a container that doesn’t drain, add stones or gravel to the bottom of the pot and place your amaryllis bulb in the center of the container.  Add water to the container until it just touches the base of the bulb. Choose a warm, bright location for your bulb and maintain the water level throughout the growing and blooming cycle. It should be noted that amaryllis grown in water are difficult to get to rebloom the following season.  

  

In addition to water and soil, waxed amaryllis bulbs are available. Waxed bulbs contain all the water and nutrients required for them to bloom. Simply place them in a bright, warm spot in your house and enjoy the holiday color.  

  

For colorful blooms throughout the holidays, plant an amaryllis bulb every two to three weeks, starting now.   

  

  

As the flowers start to fade, cut them off. This is to prevent seeds from forming. Wait until the flower stalk starts to turn yellow before removing it. When you do cut off the flower stalk, be careful to not remove any leaves. You’ll want to leave the leaves of the amaryllis intact. The leaves are needed to create energy for the bulb, so it will rebloom. Place the amaryllis in a bright indoor location and water regularly, along with your other houseplants. Fertilize monthly with a 15-30-15 plant food.  

  

Amaryllis can be taken outdoors once there is no longer a risk of frost. Place them in a location where they’ll receive morning sun and afternoon shade. Continue to water and fertilize the potted bulb as needed. Spending time outdoors will allow the bulb to gather the energy needed in order to rebloom.  

  

For amaryllis to rebloom, they need to be exposed to cool temperatures.  In mid to late August, stop watering and move the potted bulb to a cool (45 to 55°F), dark location for eight to ten weeks.  During this time, do not water the plant. Check the bulb periodically and remove any leaves as they turn yellow.  After the ten-week period, move the potted bulb to a warm, bright location and resume watering. If the bulb has stored enough energy during the summer, it should bloom in 4 to 6 weeks.  
 
If you purchased a waxed bulb, it will be necessary to remove the wax and the wire stand. Once this is done, and the bulb is still firm, it can be planted and cared for like other amaryllis bulbs.   

  

  

 

 

How to Prepare Trees for Winter

 

 

One of the most important gardening tasks this time of year is to prepare your trees for the winter season. Winterizing trees includes light pruning, adding some organic materials to the soil, watering and in the case of young trees, wrapping the trunk. Pruning this time of year should be confined to damaged branches and suckers. Tree suckers are branches that can emerge from the base of the tree or low on the trunk. 

Trees that are under stress will tend to send up more suckers. Prune these branches off now. Small dead branches in the trees canopy can be removed at this time. Using a sharp bypass pruner, cut these small branches near the main trunk. Any major pruning is best done in winter when the tree is dormant. 

This is a good time of the year to add organic material to the area under the tree, specifically HuMic. HuMic contains humate, a soil conditioner that improves nutrient uptake, increases microbial activity and offers the benefits of a high-quality compost, all in one package.   

 

Improved nutrient uptake is important for all trees, but especially trees that are suffering from iron chlorosis. Humate will facilitate more efficient iron uptake in any tree experiencing iron deficiency.   

 

When you're finished adding humate, water the tree thoroughly. This is important because water acts as an insulator. Moist soil will be warmer. Hydrated cells will resist damage from the cold weather. As far as how much water your trees need, a general guideline suggests 10 gallons of water per inch of trunk diameter, as measured at chest height. You can water by hand or use a simple lawn sprinkler. 

Where you place the sprinkler depends on whether this is a newly planted tree or an established tree. For newly planted trees, water the root ball area. For established trees, place the sprinkler at the drip line. The drip line is the outer edge of the tree’s branches. The key is to water at a slow enough rate that the water soaks in and doesn't run off.  

 

 

Finally, young deciduous trees need to have their trunks wrapped. This is to prevent damage from the winter sun.  It’s not unusual for winter temperatures to reach 60° Fahrenheit in the daytime. When it gets this warm during the day, the low winter sun heats up the tree bark, especially on the south and southwest sides of the tree. The sun’s warming action breaks the tree's dormancy and the cells on that side of the tree wakeup and become active.  When the temperatures fall after sunset, the active cells and tissue die. Prevent sunscald on young trees by applying tree wrap now. 

Tree wrap is a corrugated paper product. Start at the base of the tree and spiral the wrap upward to the first primary branch. Overlap each turn by one-third.  Once you reach the first set of branches, loop the tree wrap over a strong, sturdy branch and tape it, so it will stay in place. A good rule of thumb is to wrap your trees around Halloween and remove the wrap around Easter. 

 

Taking these steps now will help ensure all the trees in your landscape will survive the winter and emerge healthy in the spring.