Dormant Tree Pruning Tips 

Tree pruning is important and necessary for several reasons. Pruning helps develop strong limbs and a studier structure. Pruning improves tree overall health by removing dead and diseased limbs and reducing the risk of storm damage. Pruning protects the value of your trees and increases their longevity. 

Pruning while the tree is dormant has two distinct advantages over pruning when trees are active during the growing season. First, it’s easy to assess the general health of your trees because the interior of the tree is visible. In addition, at this time of year most of the tree’s energy is held in their root systems.

Pruning now allows the tree to direct all that stored energy into the remaining health branches and limbs resulting in a more vigorous growth come spring.  Take advantage of some of these warmer late winter days and walk through your garden, paying particular attention to the crabapple, apple, pear trees and other deciduous trees.

At this point, you’re looking for broken branches or limbs, diseased branches, branches and twigs that crisscross or rub against one another.  Removing these twigs, branches and limbs will open the center of the tree allowing light and air to get through and improve the tree’s overall health and vigor. 

To accomplish your pruning task safely and effectively, you need a sharp set of pruners, a pair of long handled loppers and for higher limbs, a telescoping tree saw and pruner.

Safety is key in any tree pruning effort which means, if you can’t reach a branch or limb while you’re standing on the ground, you’re better off hiring a professional arborist or garden landscape service. For mature trees, the plan is to remove no more than one-third of the canopy. For trees that have been planted for five years or less, don’t remove more than twenty percent of the canopy.

Start with the obvious candidates: damaged, broken limbs need to come down first. Small twigs and branches can be cut easily with hand pruners or loppers.  

 

For large branches that need to be removed, invest in a pruning saw and follow the three-step method. Starting 8" to 10" from the main branch, make the first cut upwards about halfway through the branch. Finish the cut from the top down to meet the first cut. This will remove most of the weight of the branch and prevent damage to the main trunk. The third cut is made downward just outside the collar, where the branch meets the trunk.  

Next look for water sprouts and sucker shoots. These are easy to identify because they tend to grow straight up. Sucker shoots originate from the base of the tree. Water sprouts spring up from a branch. Water sprouts and water suckers are signs of stress. They’re indicators that the tree is not receiving adequate moisture.  

With crabapple, apple, pear trees we’re also looking for signs of fire blight. Fire blight gets its name from the burnt appearance of blossoms and branches. The flowers will turn brown and small branches and fruit will shrivel up and blacken. Fire blight is a bacterial disease, spread by wind, rain, snow or insect activity and occurs while the tree is in bloom. Now’s the time to remove these branches, while the bacteria is dormant.  

With any of this information, if you’re not sure what to prune or which tool to use, stop in and talk to us. We’ll help you.   

 

 

 

A Timeline for Starting Seeds Indoors

   

When it comes to starting seeds indoors in the spring, knowing when to start is one of the most important elements. Begin by understanding the hardiness zone you garden in. Sometimes called growing zones, USDA zone hardiness maps are based on winter temperature averages over a thirty-year period. The intent is to help gardeners make informed decisions regarding which plants will perform well in their geographical area. While primarily aimed at trees, shrubs, perennials, knowing your hardiness zone is useful for your vegetable garden as well. The 5 zones represented in Colorado are 3, 4, 5, 6, 7. The mountains are predominantly Zone 4, the fruit growing area near Grand Junction is 6-7and the Front Range predominantly Zone 4-5. Longmont Plant Hardiness Zone is 5b and Estes Park is Zone 5a. 

 

A normal growing season is 146 days (about 5 months). This number assumes that season extenders such as frost cloths or cold frames are not used. As a rule, May 15 (May 30 if you garden at altitude) is the start of our frost-free growing season. That said, you should always be prepared to deal with the unpredictable spring weather. Some years we’ve been able to plant as early as Mother’s Day, other seasons it’s after Memorial Day. Last year, for example, we had light snow and 27° on May 22. October 1st is the average first Fall frost. 

 

 

 

Using May 15 and the information on the back of the seed packets you’ve selected will help determine the date you’ll want to start your seeds indoors. Example: Peppers should be started eight to ten weeks before last spring frost. Ten weeks before May 15 is the week of March 7.  

 

Begin the process by choosing high quality, fresh seeds from local suppliers. Check the back of the seed packet. There should be a 2023 date printed on it. This is your assurance that the seed is fresh. When you open the seed packet you should find seeds that are uniform in size and color. Selecting premium seeds will give you better germination rates and stronger seedlings.  

 

Take time to read the seed packet. You’ll find valuable information regarding planting depth, spacing and days to emerge on the outside of the packet.   

 

In addition to seeds, you’ll need containers, domes, labels and seed starting medium. When it comes to containers, plastic seed starting trays and inserts are the more traditional method for starting plants from seed. You fill the plastic cells with seed starting mix, then plant seeds in them. This method works very well, and you can choose from several different inserts.   

An alternative method would be to use peat-based containers. An advantage to growing in peat pots is once your seedlings are ready to be moved to the garden, peat pots can be planted directly in the ground, which reduces transplant shock.  

 

Domes help hold in moisture and warmth while your seeds are sprouting. Domes are available in two inch and seven-inch sizes. Once your seeds have sprouted and have two sets of true leaves, remove the domes to allow air circulation.  

 

It’s important to label trays, so you’ll know the variety of seed you’ve planted. Labels are available in wood or plastic, and they can follow your seedlings from the starting tray right into the garden.  

 

Now that you have selected your seed starting trays, inserts, and domes, pick up some seed starting mix. Use seed starter, not potting soil. Seed starter mix is sterile and holds moisture well. You'll have much better results with seed germination. It's a good idea to moisten the seed starting medium before you sow your seed.  

 

For quicker germination and stronger root systems, buy a heat mat. Heat mats keep the seed starting soil temperature constantly warm, even as the grow room cools off in the evening. Keeping the soil at a constant temperature promotes faster germination, larger root systems and sturdier plants.   

 

Starting plants from seed is a great way to get the variety of vegetables and tomatoes you want. Using the right seed and seed starting supplies will help ensure better, stronger transplants when it does come to time to move your seedlings out into the garden.