Now’s the Time to Put the Roses to Bed

 

  

The process of preparing roses for winter includes pruning, a thorough clean-up, deep-root watering, then mulching each plant.  

Roses vary in hardiness, but all roses will benefit from some attention and preparation before winter arrives. This is because our winter temperatures can fluctuate widely, and moisture levels will vary from month to month. Begin by cutting each cane back about to about 24" to 30". This is not an exact measurement, but it’s important to cut tall canes now to prevent damage from winter winds.  

  

Prune to the outward bud, so that future growth is toward the outside, away from the center of the bush. If you see any diseased branches and leaves, cut them off and dispose of them. 

  

 
Remove any spent flowers or rose hips at this time. Clean up fallen leaves, petals, and debris from around the rose bush. Any existing mulch should be cleaned up as well.  A thorough cleanup will help prevent diseases such as black spot, powdery mildew, and rust as well as insect pests such as Western Flower Thrip from wintering over and reinfecting your rose bushes come spring.  

  

Next, water your roses deeply.  Roses with dry roots will suffer more damage in cold temperatures than roses with well-hydrated roots. 

  

  

Whether your roses are grafted or own root, they will benefit from applying a natural mulch to the bed.  This serves to keep the ground cold and stable and help prevent damage to the rose bush as the ground freezes and thaws, only to freeze again during our typical winter season. Adding mulch will also help retain moisture.

Soil Pep, Cedar Mulch and Gorilla Hair are good choices for mulching your roses. Soil Pep offers the additional benefit of being an amendment to improve your soil.   

 
 
 
 

A three-to-four-inch layer of mulch should be applied to the entire area under the rose canopy, with seven-to-eight inches added to the central part of the bush. This will protect the bud graft as well as the roots.  A rose collar will help hold the mulch around the graft.

  

If you have climbing roses in the garden, wait until spring to prune them. Instead, secure the canes to the trellis and wrap them in burlap to prevent winter winds from drying out and damaging the canes, then apply mulch. Applying an anti-desiccant such as Wilt Pruf will help canes from drying out during the winter.   

  

  

Water your roses (and other shrubs, trees, perennials) every four to five weeks during the winter. Pick a day when the temperature is above 40° and water slowly, using a bubbler or adjustable handheld sprinkler.  

  

As always, you are welcome to bring your rose and gardening questions or concerns to the Diagnostic Center in the Hardgoods section of the store.      

  

 

 

How to Care for Holiday Cactus

 

  

This time of year, you’ll find many holiday-specific plants, including Cyclamen, Poinsettia, Amaryllis, and of course, holiday cactus. Each kind of holiday cactus typically flowers around the holiday it’s named for; Thanksgiving cactus in bloom now, followed by the Christmas cactus later in the season, then Easter or Spring cactus.  Known collectively as holiday cacti, all three are native to Brazil’s natural forests.

An easy way to identify each cactus type is to look at the end of the stem. Thanksgiving cactus stems have claw-like edges while the Christmas variety is rounder.  

 

 

If you have a plant that came from a cutting off your grandmother’s fifty-year-old cactus, it’s most likely one or the other.  

  

 

 

While there are only a few varieties in the original group of cacti, several cultivars have been developed which has expanded the range of colors available.   

  

When it comes to caring for your holiday cacti plants, it’s important to know how they grow in their natural environment. Holiday cacti grow at elevation and in the forest shade, hanging from their perches on trees or cliffs. They’re not exposed to direct sunlight nor high temperatures. In your home, they’ll do best when located in a place where they will receive bright, indirect light, daytime temperatures in the 70’s and nighttime temperatures in the 60’s.  

 

 

Holiday cacti don’t like drafts, so place them away from heating vents, fireplaces or doors that open to the outdoors. During the bloom season, feed your cactus every two weeks with a water-soluble fertilizer such as 5-10-5. When it comes to watering, check the soil moisture with your index finger. If the top inch or so is dry, then it’s time to water. Holiday cacti like high humidity and an easy way to increase humidity is to place small pebbles in a saucer, add water and set the plant on the saucer. Make sure the pot is sitting on the rock, not in the water.  If the plant begins to drop buds, it’s a sign of overwatering, insufficient light, or low humidity. 

Holiday cacti prefer to be root-bound and can easily go three or four years without repotting. When you decide to repot, choose a pot one size larger and use potting soil that drains well. Holiday cactus will stay green year-round. Continue to feed your cactus plant every two weeks with a 5-10-5 fertilizer. With a little care, your holiday cactus will produce beautiful blooms for many years to come.