There are a number of
reasons to plant a vegetable garden in the fall. Vegetables grown this time of
year are primarily root crops and greens, which means you can grow them in the
ground or in containers. There are fewer weeds and bugs to contend with in the
fall. None of these crops require special attention, such as staking or caging.
Most of these crops don’t need a full 8 hours of sun, which means you can grow
spinach or lettuce in pots on your patio even if it starts to get shady in the
late afternoon.
There is a wide variety of vegetables to grow now, including beets,
carrots, kale, chard, radishes, spinach, cabbage and broccoli.
When you’re selecting
seeds or starts look at the days to maturity information or days to harvest on
the package or label. This is roughly the amount of time from planting seeds to
picking your crops. The shorter the days to maturity, the faster you’re
harvesting. Radishes mature in about 25 days, so if you plant them now, you’ll
be picking radishes in less than four weeks.
Planting starts reduces the amount of time to
harvest. Getting ready for planting cool weather crops is much the same as it
is in spring. As always, soil quality is one of the key factors to your
success.
Even if you amended your soil in spring, vegetables can be heavy
feeders so replenish your soil with compost and peat moss.
Add a granular
fertilizer such as Happy Frog Tomato and Vegetable or
Fertilome Tomato and
Vegetable. If you’re using a container, use a good potting soil and work some
fertilizer into the mix. In addition to seeds and starts,
you’ll need markers
and some frost protection for later in the season. N-sulate, a frost blanket or
a sheet will be enough to keep your plants safe though any cold nights we might
get. As a final note, there’s nothing like being able to pick fresh greens for
tonight’s salad and knowing where they came from and how they were grown.
Tuesday, August 25, 2015
Tuesday, August 18, 2015
Time to divide and plant Iris.
With their showy spring flowers,
bearded iris are one of those “must have” plants for your garden. Iris are
generally low maintenance plants season after season, but over time they can become
crowded and they stop producing as many blooms.
That’s an indication they need
to be divided and the time to dig and divide iris is now.
The best tool to use to dig iris roots –
called rhizomes, is a spading fork. Spading forks make it easy to get under and
lift the rhizome without causing damage to the roots. Once you’ve got the clump
of iris out of the ground, you’ll be able to see the rhizomes clearly. You’ll
want to remove any old or diseased rhizomes.
You can divide the clump with a
knife or by simply breaking off each root with your hand.
Trim the leaves in a
fan shape down to between 4" and 6".
Mark the leaves with the name of
the iris, so you’ll remember which one it is.
Or add a plant label with the name of the iris. When you’re planting your iris in
their new location, remember that iris grow in the direction of the heel so
place your rhizomes with the leaves planted in the direction you want the plant
to grow. Iris will do okay in clay soils, but they thrive in soils that have
been amended, so add a couple of inches of Sheep, Peat and Compost and dig it in 4-5 inches.
Add some Bine Meal and place the
rhizome so that the roots are fanned out to the side, then add enough soil to cover the roots, while leaving the very top of the rhizome exposed. Water in thoroughly.
Your iris will establish through the
fall and be ready to bloom next spring. This is also a good time to add new
varieties and colors to your garden.
You can choose from tall beard iris such
as Tennison Ridge or iris that bloom spring and fall.
Same planting guidelines
apply. Pick a good solid rhizome, amend the soil well, add some Bone Meal and
make sure you mark the iris so you’ll remember the name next spring.
Tuesday, August 11, 2015
Controlling powdery mildew
Late July into August is the
time many garden diseases, such as powdery mildew,
black spot and
rust start to
show up. Vegetable gardens, shrubs and trees can be affected. Good cultural
practices can prevent a number of disease and insect problems. These include
watering in the early morning so plants don’t sit wet all night. When you water,
avoid overhead watering if you can. It’s best to water at the base of the plant
if possible. Try to avoid splashing soil up onto the leaves when you water.
This will reduce the chances of disease spreading. Make sure plants have plenty
of room to breathe. As your garden grows, plants can become crowded, reducing
the air circulation around them. Pruning excess foliage back so there is room
between plants will help with air flow. Keep an eye out for insect activity. Insects can spread diseases
from plant to plant. Even with the best soil and growing conditions, there are
times when an organic fungicide is needed. Sulfur, Neem oil, Serenade and Green Cure are
organic fungicides available to you for use in your garden.
Sulfur is a broad spectrum fungicide with an
added benefit of controlling mites and thrip. This is important because insect
activity can move diseases from plant to plant.
This liquid sulfur is listed with the
Organic Material Review Board (OMRI) for use in organic gardens.
Neem oil is
made from the seeds of the Azadirachta
indica tree. Neem oil offers good fungus control and also controls insects
and mites.
Serenade contains Bacillus subtilis,
a soil-dwelling bacterium that controls powdery
mildew, leaf blight and many other leaf diseases.
Green Cure is a concentrate you mix and apply. Green Cure will work on fungus problems in the lawn and garden. Knowing what you’re dealing
with is key. Bring a sample of your plant problems into the store and we’ll
help you decide which product is right for your garden.
Tuesday, August 4, 2015
Deadheading and some other August chores
It’s not only what you plant
but how you care for your plants that encourages blooming through the season. Now
is the time for a mid-season clean up in your garden. You need to look at beds
and borders, containers and hanging baskets with a critical eye. Keeping your
garden looking its best means removing fading and spent flowers, as well as
cleaning up leaves, branches and debris.
Most annuals and perennials do their best
when you remove fading blooms early, before they begin to form seeds. In
gardening terms it’s called deadheading, which simply means pruning off the old
flowers. This keeps the garden neat and promotes additional blooms as well. Get
in the habit of deadheading while you walk through your garden. It’s easy to
carry a pair of light pruners with you as you make your rounds.
As you spot a blossom
beginning to fade snip or pinch it off.
Sometimes you’ll need to snip it off,
while other times you can simply pinch off old flowers. While you’re at it,
check the plant for bugs or disease problems. Getting on a problem early is the
best way to control it.
Stems and leaves
can get damaged or wear out through the course of the season. Now’s the time to
remove them.
The lower parts of veronica
and salvia can really look bad this time of year. Prune them hard and they will
come back strong by fall.
Check your roses and remove spent blossoms. Do the
same for your container plants, including your hanging baskets.
While you’re at
it, take a hard look at your vegetables. Removing dead
and diseased leaves on your tomato plants will put more energy into fruit production. Keeping pace
with dead-heading and cleanup makes it a lot easier when the gardening season
wraps up.